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Pete Wells Not Impressed by Pricey Greek Seafood; Peasant Still Going Strong

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While Pete Wells compares Limani and Estiatorio Milos, other critics take on Monte Carlo, and the 15-year-old Peasant.

Peasant
Peasant
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Yesterday, Ryan Sutton awarded four stars to South Williamsburg newcomer Semilla, while Robert Sietsema awarded three stars to the new Somtum Der offshoot Kiin Thai. Now here's a roundup of the rest of the week's restaurant reviews:

Pete Wells files a double review of two pricey Greek restaurants in Midtown, Limani and Estiatorio Milos: "Limani is nobody's idea of a cheap night out, but the somewhat less fearsome seafood prices are a firm point in its favor. And it was only at Milos that I was served a fish that had stayed slightly too long on the flames, a whole fagri costing just over $80." One star each. [NYT]

Tejal Rao finds a good new neighborhood spot in the "trend averse" Monte Carlo on the Upper East Side: "Coq au vin, rarely seen on contemporary New York restaurant menus, is wine-dark, as it should be. The sauce is pleasingly sour; its depth is tangy and bright, with chewy pieces of pork belly and whole onions braised in the sauce. The meat is tender, yet still holding together, not stewed to a stringy death. It arrives with a side of mashed potato, as dense as mashed potatoes from an earlier era." One star. [Bloomberg]

Zachary Feldman is impressed by Peasant, which turns 15 this year: "Whole squab (beak included) lies face-up on the plate, its head resting on a roasted pear-half as if it were a naptime pillow. The soft fruit and ultra-rare flesh augur a rousing alarm for the taste buds, a flurry of concentrated, musky flavors...the chef is grateful for contemporary diners' willingness to try new things, like those pigs' heads, which he'd previously thrown out." [VV]

THE ELSEWHERE: Ligaya Mishan dines at Harlem's "imperfect, sometimes wonderful" SpaHa Soul. Amelia Lester compares the pizza at Prova and Marta. Gael Greene has fun at Santina, though a few dishes miss the mark. Sarah Zorn loves the classic French fare at L'Antagoniste.

THE BLOGS: Restaurant Girl checks out Northern Tiger, the latest addition to Hudson Eats, the Infatuation prefers the burger over the lobster at Burger & Lobster, NY Journal is impressed by Contra, Chekmark Eats loves a meal at La Vara, Chopsticks + Marrow eats brisket and pastrami at David's Brisket House, NYC Foodie deems In Vino a good date spot, and Gothamist files a positive early take of Streetbird Rotisserie.

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