Pete Wells Not Impressed by Pricey Greek Seafood; Peasant Still Going Strong

Yesterday, Ryan Sutton awarded four stars to South Williamsburg newcomer Semilla, while Robert Sietsema awarded three stars to the new Somtum Der offshoot Kiin Thai. Now here's a roundup of the rest of the week's restaurant reviews:

Pete Wells files a double review of two pricey Greek restaurants in Midtown, Limani and Estiatorio Milos: "Limani is nobody's idea of a cheap night out, but the somewhat less fearsome seafood prices are a firm point in its favor. And it was only at Milos that I was served a fish that had stayed slightly too long on the flames, a whole fagri costing just over $80." One star each. [NYT]

Tejal Rao finds a good new neighborhood spot in the "trend averse" Monte Carlo on the Upper East Side: "Coq au vin, rarely seen on contemporary New York restaurant menus, is wine-dark, as it should be. The sauce is pleasingly sour; its depth is tangy and bright, with chewy pieces of pork belly and whole onions braised in the sauce. The meat is tender, yet still holding together, not stewed to a stringy death. It arrives with a side of mashed potato, as dense as mashed potatoes from an earlier era." One star. [Bloomberg]

Zachary Feldman is impressed by Peasant, which turns 15 this year: "Whole squab (beak included) lies face-up on the plate, its head resting on a roasted pear-half as if it were a naptime pillow. The soft fruit and ultra-rare flesh augur a rousing alarm for the taste buds, a flurry of concentrated, musky flavors...the chef is grateful for contemporary diners' willingness to try new things, like those pigs' heads, which he'd previously thrown out." [VV]

THE ELSEWHERE: Ligaya Mishan dines at Harlem's "imperfect, sometimes wonderful" SpaHa Soul. Amelia Lester compares the pizza at Prova and Marta. Gael Greene has fun at Santina, though a few dishes miss the mark. Sarah Zorn loves the classic French fare at L'Antagoniste.

THE BLOGS: Restaurant Girl checks out Northern Tiger, the latest addition to Hudson Eats, the Infatuation prefers the burger over the lobster at Burger & Lobster, NY Journal is impressed by Contra, Chekmark Eats loves a meal at La Vara, Chopsticks + Marrow eats brisket and pastrami at David's Brisket House, NYC Foodie deems In Vino a good date spot, and Gothamist files a positive early take of Streetbird Rotisserie.