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Pete Wells Doubles up on Limani and Estiatorio Milos, Two Spendy Greek Seafood Spots

One star each for these very expensive Midtown restaurants.

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Today in his review, Pete Wells pits two Greek seafood restaurants, Limani and Estiatorio Milos head to head. Both are in Midtown, both are insanely expensive, both feature mountains of seafood piled on ice, and they're distantly related (it's complicated, but most importantly, the chef at Limani used to be a chef at Milos). Limani is the newcomer, having opened in November, while Milos has been around since 1997.

The main draws at both are the more exotic fish and shellfish, like "the heart-stoppingly sweet and supple red shrimp called carabineiros." As Wells describes it:

Both restaurants serve red shrimp with a glass of sherry for the heads, although Milos suggests dunking the heads before sucking out the fat, while Limani advocates pouring the wine into the head and knocking it back, fat and all, like a Jägermeister shot.

Ultimately, however, the non-seafood dishes and, more than anything, the prices ($270 for spiny lobster! $32 for a Greek salad!), pull both places down. Wells awards both restaurants one star, demoting Estiatorio Milos from the two stars it received from Ruth Reichl in 1997.

Estiatorio Milos

125 West 55th Street, Manhattan, NY 10019 (212) 245-7400 Visit Website

Limani

670 Wharf Street Southwest, , DC 20024 Visit Website