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Pete Wells Reviews a Sandwich Shop, Plus High Praise for Fung Tu and The Finch

This week, the critics review everything from Meat Hook Sandwich to Momofuku Ko.

Momofuku Ko
Momofuku Ko
Daniel Krieger

While Eater's critics take a break from reviews to focus on burgers, here's a roundup of what the rest of the critics are talking about.

Pete Wells files an unexpected review of Williamsburg's Meat Hook Sandwich: "The kitchen knows that even great roast beef... needs backup. It needs a tangy, salty slice of Cheddar and horseradish sauce. Shredded lettuce for its juicy crispness and then, for a savory crackle, papery wheels of fried red onions. Finally, the bootylicious ingredient: a scattering of potato that seems to have been scraped off the bottom of a pan of hash browns." One star. [NYT]

Tejal Rao thinks now is a better time than ever to visit the year-and-a-half-old Fung Tu: "Fried sweetbreads, which come in a kind of sweet and sour sauce with minuscule florets of pickled cauliflower and hot chilies, have a satisfying smack of vinegar and sugar, just like anonymous Chinese take-out, eaten out of the box. The main difference being, this tastes significantly better, sharper, and brighter." Two stars. [Bloomberg]

Stan Sagner is impressed by The Finch, a new Clinton Hill restaurant from Roberta's alum Gabe McMackin: "One of the most beautiful dishes of the night was cured Arctic char ($15), a colorful still life of silky fish draped atop tender flaps of translucent celery root and topped with trout roe that burst deliciously with each bite. The dish showcases McMackin's knack for teasing out and highlighting the best qualities in his ingredients." Four stars. [NYDN]

Adam Platt visits the new Momofuku Ko, which is still impressive but also less intimate than before: "The menu here features at least one new dish every week, with few holdovers from the old menu...It's filled with all sorts of antic food-lab inventions (oyster foam, chickpea "hozon" macarons, rye mille-feuille pastries speckled with matcha powder), and many of the ingredients are drawn from the chef's far-flung travels, including Osetra caviar from Israel, bee pollen from the apiaries of Connecticut, and even a delicate shiso eau de vie." Three stars. [NYM]

Christina Izzo visits the ultra stylish, impossible-to-get-into Polo Bar: "For the most part, the food is well prepared and satisfying, with nary a speck of innovation to speak of. Crab cakes ($17) suffer from a pinwheel of flimsy phyllo shreds and dull bell-pepper mustard, but the roasted chicken ($29), served with an überbuttery swath of mashed potatoes, is juicy enough for you to forsake the boat of jus that accompanies it." Three stars. [TONY]

THE ELSEWHERE: Ligaya Mishan rounds up a diverse bunch of new ice cream sandwiches. Silvia Killingsworth dines at Einat Admony's Bar Bolonat. Gael Greene heads to Harlem to visit the casual Caribbean LoLo's Seafood Shack.

THE BLOGS: The Infatuation gives a brutal 2.8 rating to Hecho en Dumbo, the Food Doc recaps Ssam Bar's recent collaboration dinner with Husk, NY Journal has a decent meal at Georges Forgeois' latest, La Gauloise, Chopsticks + Marrow gets dumplings and noodles at Diverse Dim Sum in Flushing, Chekmark Eats tries out the latest Tex-Mex spot, El Original, and NYC Foodie eats Hawaiian food at Noreetuh.