While Eater celebrates Burger Week, the Times is in the middle of its very own sandwich week. Which means that today, as a followup to yesterday's defense of the classic bacon, egg, and cheese sandwich, Pete Wells drops a review of Meat Hook Sandwich, the sandwich-focused offshoot of new wave Williamsburg butcher shop The Meat Hook. While the shop's popular Italian hero, veggie sub, and Nashville-inspired hot chicken sandwich receive high marks, it's the chopped cheese sandwich (a cousin of the cheesesteak hailing from Harlem and The Bronx) from the specials board that really impresses the critic:
I would call [it] the greatest cheeseburger I've ever tasted if not for the inconvenient fact that it wasn't a cheeseburger....stirs in some pickle relish and piles the meat-cheese-relish amalgam onto a sesame-seed semolina roll. The relish makes every bite spicy and sweet, while the cheese makes the meat, already potent and rich, extra hot and slick.
Wells tried to check out the shop's Wednesday steak and beer night, but was thwarted by an April Fool's prank. Served another "rearranged cheeseburger" with Tex-Mex-style queso sauce, he didn't seem to mind much. One star.
Wells also notes that Meat Hook co-founder and minor butcher celebrity Tom Mylan "recently wriggled off the Meat Hook," No word on where he's landed quite yet.