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Sodi and Williams Are Cooking 'Deeply Appealing Food' at Via Carota, Says Wells

Two stars for the excellent pasta, vegetables, and meat.

Daniel Krieger

Pete Wells finds himself more comfortable in the dining room at Via Carota, than he does at co-owner Jody Williams' petite French restaurant Buvette. At Via Carota, which Williams opened with her partner and fellow chef Rita Sodi, Wells says: "There is an ambient cuteness level, to be sure, but it is balanced by an Italian severity," and the pair is "cooking deeply appealing food." Take the chopped strip steak, which comes sans fries and bun, as it would in Italy:

Apart from calling it a svizzerina and topping it with rosemary and whole garlic cloves, they make no attempt to prettify the chopped New York strip steak. Molded into a puck and seared on cast iron, it is both simple and amazing....the way the svizzerina feels in the mouth, substantial and even slightly luxurious...

Pastas carefully crafted by Sodi and vegetables like salsify, fennel bulbs, and leeks also receive praise from the critic. But, Wells warns: "Do keep an eye on the bottom line....It's surprisingly easy to reach $100 a person." Two stars.

Via Carota

51 Grove St, New York, NY 10014 (212) 255-1962