Steve Cuozzo Digs the Romantic British Vibe at The Peacock

Fresh off of his Zuma review, Post critic Steve Cuozzo walked all the way around the corner of 39th and Madison for his review this week of The Peacock in The William hotel. Cuozzo classifies the dining as "sexy indulgence in British cuisine refined through a French-American prism, in one of the sexiest settings around." Of Cotswold native and chef Jason Hick (who took over the stoves from Robert Aikens), Cuozzo says:

Hicks serves the best pheasant I've had in years....The breast, wrapped in gleaming skin, makes its entrance with a crisp-breaded, spherical, leg meat-and-sage "sausage." The bird gets the up-country treatment with cranberry compote, celery root, and maitake and trumpet mushrooms.

The romantic atmosphere "is just the thing to kick-start a hot date on a bitter night," adds Cuozzo. He gives the restaurant two stars.