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Tonight Amadeus Broger, the owner of Nolita's unassuming French gem Le Philosophe, opens L'Antagoniste near the eastern edge of Bed-Stuy. Like Le Philosophe, this is a French restaurant in classic form, helmed by chef Frederic Robert, who hails most recently from Shanghai's well-regarded "multi-sensorial" restaurant Ultraviolet. The space has more of a farmhouse look to it than the dark-interiored Le Philosphe, but it does have a wall papered with black and white portraits, just like it's sibling. Given that Le Philosophe's portraits are of French philosophers, these are, presumably, portraits of antagonists.
The menu: Robert's menu is so French, the dishes aren't even listed in English. It includes dishes like frogs legs, escargots, lobster thermidor, duck a l'orange, and steak frites, with appetizers in the $10 to $20 range, and entrees mostly in the $25 to $30 range. This is ambitious for the neighborhood, which doesn't have many restaurants of that sort. More ambitious is the wine list, which includes plenty of inexpensive bottles and wines by the glass, but also much pricier options, ranging all the way up to a $2000 Bordeaux. Check out the full menu, below:
