Pete Wells likes Bowery Meat Company, even if it veers from the traditional steakhouse model: "The most imposing of the meats is the veal chop, thick and quartz-pink. It's rubbed with paprika, coriander and fennel seeds for a whiff of the souk, but what gives it energy is the juice of a grilled orange half. That citrus-spice alchemy is a terrific solution to the boredom sometimes caused by plain broiled lumps of animal muscle." Two stars. [NYT]
Tejal Rao finds many great seasonal dishes at Little Park: "One of my favorites of these vegetable dishes is the celery root pastrami ($13), a clever sort of riff on the brined, smoked, steamed meat sliced to order in good delis. Though it looks nothing like black-edged hot pink beef stuffed between two slices of bread, it refers to the meat eloquently. The celery root is in a mass of ribbons, aggressively smoked, and ruffled over rye crumbs so it's thick enough to cut through with a knife." Two stars. [Bloomberg]
Michael Kaminer is unimpressed by the healthy food at Franklin Becker's Little Beet Table: "Roasted sunchokes and baby leeks ($14) resemble a Soviet-style bowl of potatoes; luckily, the vegetable's deep, earthy flavor makes up for its grim appearance. And Becker's much-ballyhooed slow-cooked salmon ($26) differs little from fish at any middlebrow Midtown eatery. It's lushly textured, but lacks character, and even sturdy avocado caponata with chewy pistachios couldn't prop up the bland fish." Two stars [NYDN]
Zachary Feldman is happy with Bed-Stuy newcomer Eugene & Co.: "Patrons sit on mismatched barstools arrayed beneath a theatrically drippy resin chandelier...They snack on roasted potatoes dipped into tart lemon aioli at dusk and tackle pillowy milk buns bulging with fried green tomatoes and pimiento cheese during lunch. Soups change daily, as does a market vegetable board...This is New Brooklyn done mostly right." [VV]
THE ELSEWHERE: Ligaya Mishan visits House of Inasal, a new Filipino restaurant in Woodside. Amelia Lester finds a few worthwhile dishes at the healthy Cafe Clover. Gael Greene is a big fan of Little Park.
THE BLOGS: The Infatuation is impressed by The Finch, and loves Westville East as much as Westville, Restaurant Girl scopes out the big new food hall, City Kitchen, NY Journal has a decent steakhouse meal at Knickerbocker Grill, Chopsticks + Marrow explores a new Indonesian food bazaar in Woodside, Chekmark Eats gets shaved cream from Snowdays, and NYC Foodie has pizza and sushi at The Mark.