Pete Wells visits Josh Capon and John McDonald's Bowery Meat Company, which insists it isn't a steakhouse, but rather a "meat company." Wells wonders: "Is it possible that Bowery Meat Company doesn't know it's a steakhouse, the way Bruce Willis in The Sixth Sense doesn't know he's a ghost?" Classification aside, Wells says:
In this retro room, prime beef makes as much sense as Mr. Capon's swell nods to old-school Italian-American classics, like shrimp scampi, woozy with garlic and butter.... His zucchini carpaccio dotted with creamed feta, chopped pistachios and fresh mint is very good now; it will be excellent when squash is in season.
As for the meat, Wells finds generally good, but expensive cuts. The restaurant, after all, "understands that one of the jobs of any steakhouse, traditional or not, is to help carnivores spend lavishly," says Wells. Two stars.