Steve Cuozzo seems grateful for Florian, the most recent addition to Shelly Fireman's mini-empire which includes Cafe Fiorello and Trattoria Dell'Arte, in this week's Post review. He's particularly pleased with the prices, which he deems even more moderate than those found at Fireman's other places. The menu is vast offering pastas, pizzas, meats and Fireman's signature selection of antipasti.
Bucking notorious, veal parmigiana price creep, an on-bone specimen, pounded into a pizza-size round topped with burrata rather than cheaper mozzarella, was just $31. Chicken Calabrese diavola, fired with red bell and Calabrese peppers, is another steal at $58 for the whole bird, which serves two.
He also recommends the "polenta pans," particularly one topped with cotechino, a lobster seafood farro soup, and "made-to-order vanilla ice cream sculpted into a Matterhorn." Two stars.