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Pete Wells Wowed by Enrique Olvera's Modern Mexican Food, Gives Cosme Three Stars

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The cooking "sails right over ideas like tradition, authenticity and modernity."

Daniel Krieger

Today (just like Adam Platt did yesterday), Pete Wells reviews Cosme, one of the most hyped restaurants of the last three months. The Times critic is thoroughly impressed by Enrique Olvera's modern, upscale Mexican food:

White ayocote beans, which look like cannellinis and are as creamy as any bean I've tasted, are surrounded by mixed greens and sliced radishes, all looking innocent enough; it's the habaneros and charred cucumbers in the dressing that get you. The raw hamachi dabbed with lime and jalapeño sounds like another crudo variation, but the jalapeños are fermented and the limes dried until they turn black; together their flavor is so intense it could walk through bricks.

He notes, as many have before him, that the restaurant is not exactly cheap – dinner for two can easily add up to $300. But he also notes, as others also have, that this is nothing like your average Mexican restaurant, and gives it a solid three stars.

Cosme

35 East 21st Street, Manhattan, NY 10010 (212) 913-9659 Visit Website

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