While most of New York's critics seem to be holding off visiting Tavern on the Green, SF Chronicle critic Michael Bauer was in town and decided to pop by for a visit. After all, the restaurant's newly minted chef, Jeremiah Tower was a big presence in the Bay Area restaurant scene — back in the 1980's — and came out of retirement in Mexico to take the gig. Of his meal, Bauer says:
The chicken looks like a regiment lining up for inspection with three lines of food: a knob of salad on one side, the chicken propped in the center and roasted root vegetables and the gratin on the other side...[And] Desserts made no statement beyond boring.
Bauer says he's rooting for Tower (who wasn't in the kitchen), but even he is slightly confused here: "I wondered why he would choose such a large, touristy spot for his comeback, unless he's into the irony of two warhorses finding renewed relevance on a national stage." Bauer says the meal was "good enough when judged against other tourist restaurants." Yikes.