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Steve Cuozzo Finds Food & Wine's Chefs Club Surprisingly 'Smooth-Running'

With so many chefs contributing, the restaurant could be all over the place, but it's not.

Daniel Krieger

Steve Cuozzo is the first critic out of the gate to review Food & Wine's Chef Chefs Club. Despite the confusing set up (the menu features dishes from several famous chefs around the country, who are rarely in house), Cuozzo finds "a rollicking, smooth-running brasserie," that offers a coherent seasonal, "modern American" menu.

Rustic meat is the house strength... "pork and beans" was a kind of American cassoulet. The pig three ways — shoulder confit, belly and sausage — met its back-country match in stick-to-your-ribs, tomato-based stew thick with sea island peas and hominy, finished with bread crumbs and gratin.

However, the kitchen has "yet to hit full stride. Seafood mains fell short of glory," and Cuozzo issues a warning: "Not all waiters know dishes as well as they should." Still, Cuozzo ends his meals well with excellent desserts from Michelin-starred pastry chef Sylvain Marrari. The restaurant receives two and a half stars.

Chefs Club by Food & Wine

275 Mulberry Street, New York, NY 10012 (212) 941-1100 Visit Website

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