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Adam Platt Likes the Food at Cosme, But Is it Starting to Run on 'Cruise Control'?

Enrique Olvera's upscale Mexican food is still excellent, but the bar scene is not pretty.

Daniel Krieger

Adam Platt files a review of Enrique Olvera's three-month-old Mexican hot spot Cosme this morning. He's impressed by the food:

The lone tamal on the menu is infused almost indelibly with steamed eggplant (and garnished, deliciously, with whipped ricotta), and instead of the usual wad of lamb or goat, the house barbacoa is constructed with a rich mix of mushrooms and squash and served with a stack of fluffy white-corn tortillas.

But he has some concerns about how the restaurant is settling in, given that Enrique Olvera isn't always around. He notes that the "service seemed increasingly frayed," and that the bar scene is something of a shitshow – it's "starting to resemble a grim parody of a hot downtown restaurant circa 1992." Ultimately, he gives the restaurant three stars.

Cosme

35 East 21st Street, Manhattan, NY 10010 (212) 913-9659 Visit Website

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