Pete Wells Finds Excellent Northern Thai Dishes at Kao Soy in Red Hook

Pete Wells spends some time in Red Hook, fighting off the freezing wind with fiery Northern Thai food at Kao Soy, where he seeks the restaurant and Chiang Mai's signature dish, khao soi:

[A] pale-yellow coconut milk curry...with submerged noodles and a chicken leg, and, above the surface, fried egg noodles going off in all directions with strands of green-papaya fritters....I was eating all of this as fast as I could, and as the overall deliciousness began to sink in I started eating even faster.

Wells has few complaints about the restaurant, but the small tables coupled with large plates and the Thai custom of eating many dishes together causes a little table real estate problem. Still, he's happy to find dishes offered few other places in Brooklyn. Wells gives Kao Soy one star, plus he offers this tidbit of news: As of two weeks ago, the restaurant has a liquor license, and is now (finally) equipped with beer, wine, and cider.