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Reviews for Sessanta, Quality Eats, Lowlife, and More

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This week, Tejal Roa names Rebelle, Momofuku Ko, and Mission Chinese Food as some of 2015's Best New Restaurants. Here's a roundup of the rest of this week's big reviews:

[Wildair]
[Wildair]
Daniel Krieger

Pete Wells recalls his visits to Italian newcomers Sessanta and L'Amico. Of the two spots he writes: "So successfully do these two restaurants attract this breed that they may have been built for that purpose alone. For other uses, they are not as reliable. Their cooking can be very rewarding at times, but not quite consistently enough to attract creatures who are mainly interested in food. Servers in both places can suddenly fade away; if you were dating, you’d call it ghosting." One star each.

Additionally, in a "Critic's Notebook" piece, Wells is one of the eight nightly seats at Domnique Ansel's dessert tasting menu U.P.: "The U.P. menu had more ups than downs — another allegory, I suppose, or at least a metaphor. The best reason to fight 800 other people for a ticket is to be reminded of all the potential for beauty and drama in desserts, qualities that are awfully scarce in restaurants in this age of glorified sundaes."

Josh Stein has only good things to stay about Lowlife: "Mr. Leonard isn’t aggressive about his technique or bombastic about innovation. He plates lightly, treads lightly, and his team of six chefs cook lightly. There are only ten offerings on the menu and yet each of them quietly carries at least one brilliant touch." Five out of five stars.

[Lowlife in LES] Photo by Nick Solares

[Lowlife in LES] Photo by Nick Solares

Contra's sister and neighbor Wildair has a big fan in Bloomberg's Tejal Rao: "Servers haven’t been coached to introduce themselves to you with a speech, or explain the menu (the menu does not require explaining). Dinner at Wildair doesn’t seem rehearsed at all, more like masterful improv." Two stars.

Gael Greene dines with Millennials at Quality Eats in Greenwich Village: "A glance at the menu reveals some quirky diversions. Very appealing, too. Sausage and pepper toast. A must try. That steakhouse staple, Nueske’s bacon, served here with peanut butter andJalapeño jelly. Butternut brioche bread pudding. Oh, wow, what a concept. I want to taste everything."

[Quality Eats] Photo by Nick Solares

[Quality Eats] Photo by Nick Solares

At Kopitiam in the Lower East Side, Ligaya Mishan is partial to its sweets menu: "All are delicious, but Ms. Pang’s mother may have the upper hand, with desserts like muah chee, larval nubs of hot mochi pitched in roasted ground peanuts, sesame seeds and sugar, and kuih talam, a dense jellylike layer cake, the bottom green from pandan and pea flour, the top creamy with coconut milk and spiked with salt."

TONY's Christina Izzo finds little to be excited about at Yunnan BBQ: "Exclamation points punctuate the new menu—"Rice & Noodle Time!", "The Main Attraction!"—but unfortunately, the excitement doesn’t translate from page to plate." One star.

Adam Gopnik of Tables for Two is happy to see little has changed at Le Veau D'or in Midtown: "You leave and hope that the place continues as is, justifying the ways of a Manhattan fantasy of France to future generations of sad and hungry shoppers."

Zachary Feldman finds comfort in chef Kevin Adey's menu at Faro: "The pastas, priced and portioned as both appetizers and entrées, merit the trip all on their own, but Adey also showcases his training and experience in composed savory courses."

Faro Interior Daniel Krieger

[Faro Interior] Photo by Daniel Krieger

The Blogs: Restaurant Girl has her most exciting meal of 2015 at Gabriel Kreuther, The Infatuation thinks L'Amico is the restaurant Penn Station has been waiting for, and Joe DiStefano finds the best spicy pork porridge in Jackson Heights.

Wildair

142 Orchard Street, Manhattan, NY 10002 (646) 964-5624 Visit Website


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