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By Chloe Expands to Soho, Wells Reviews 'Food Whore,' and More Intel

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The Modern sees a 4,500 increase in kitchen applications, plus more news and gossip from around New York City.

[The second floor dining room at Chris Jaeckle's reliably solid Italian restaurant All'Onda. The chef recently launched a lunch menu that includes several new sandwiches plus "parmesan dashi ramen."]
[The second floor dining room at Chris Jaeckle's reliably solid Italian restaurant All'Onda. The chef recently launched a lunch menu that includes several new sandwiches plus "parmesan dashi ramen."]
Daniel Krieger

Veggie burger restaurant By Chloe is expanding to 240 Lafayette Street in Soho next year. That space previously housed an outpost of 16 Handles. Another location of the vegan fast casual restaurant is slated to open near the Flatiron in a few months, too.

Pete Wells slams Food Whore, a new book about a fictional Times food critic by the name of Michael Saltz who loses his sense of taste and hires a young lady named Tia Monroe to be his taster. From Wells's review: "The dishes Monroe reviews, things like herring with curried goat cheese curd, read like bizarre word salads, even by the striving standards of New York dining. The everyday foods seem made up, too. On a quiet night at home, Monroe and her roommate eat mayonnaise on Triscuits garnished with lettuce 'for an extra dose of freshness.' Even if you’ve lost your sense of taste, that little snack might be hard to swallow."

— Danny Meyer says The Modern saw "a 4,500 percent increase in applications from excellent cooks" since his group's no-tipping "Hospitality Included" plan was announced.

— And speaking of Danny Meyer, his flagship restaurant Union Square Cafe is ending its run at 21 East 16th Street on Saturday. Regulars are now paying their final visits to the restaurant before it moves to the old City Crab space at the corner of Park Avenue South and East 19th Street.

— Soho hot spot Sadelle's recently introduced a new vestibule/coat check combo:

[Photo: Nick Solares]

Jason Wang is now hiring kitchen staff for the new East Village iteration of his Flushing hit Biang. A sign in the window of the old Alder space at 157 Second Avenue indicates that Wang and his crew are shooting to open by the end of the month.

It's only been open for three weeks, but the Robs decide to give Bunk Sandwiches three Underground Gourmet stars: "Bunk could easily get away with serving just its signature sandwiches and the bags of Kettle chips that come with them, but the kitchen also turns out some great side dishes. Chief among these are burnt broccoli with garlic and chiles, a spectacular potato salad (credit the addition of bacon and eggs), and fries smothered with New Orleans-style debris gravy that puts the disco-fries competition to shame." The critics also give three U.G. stars to Southside Coffee in Greenwood Heights.

— A Bronx resident named Nebi Ayele turned his apartment into a club that he rents out for the night for $750 on Airbnb. The space has a stage, a fire pit, a stripper pole, and "professional lighting." The neighbors are complaining about the noise emanating from the space, and Airbnb is investigating the situation.

— The owners of San Francisco chain Boba Guys are opening a new location of the cafe in the Clinton Street space that previously housed Brunswick coffee house. The new shop should open early next year.

Adam Gopnik reviews Le Veau D'Or on East 60th Street for Tables for Two: "Le Veau d’Or was, and remains, Manhattan French. Reviews written thirty-five years ago (it opened in 1937 and has changed hands only a few times since) confirm its unwavering nature: those same banquettes, the same Paris street signs, and a bar up front where a few people murmur and drink vermouth. Men in sweaters and women in longish skirts make up the clientele these days, and, if they seem not exactly meatpacking-district chic, they still lean into each other happily on a cold night, obviously in the presence of a treat."

Post critic Steve Cuozzo shares his thoughts on the new salt warnings at chain restaurants: "[E]xpect New Yorkers to regard the salt alerts they way they do every other nutritional no-no: with a large grain of baloney."

CitiField will serve Coca-Cola beverages instead of Pepsi products next year. The big neon Pepsi sign is coming down.

Ample Hills is now serving two Star Wars-themed ice cream flavors.  One is called The Dark Side, and the other is called The Light Side.

— And finally, here's a guide to understanding meat cuts, with Pat LaFrieda Jr.:

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