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The Goose Is Loose at Jams in Midtown — Again

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The Times critic finds a lot of clunkers on the menu at Jonathan Waxman's new restaurant.

[Jams in Midtown]
[Jams in Midtown]
Daniel Krieger

At Jams 2.0 Pete Wells was served weirdly cooked pasta, fluke with partially brown avocado bits, and a tuna sandwich that had "almost no presence." The critic finds that the best course of action is to avoid any of the throw-backs to Jonathan Waxman's original version of Jams:

The Jams pancakes, pink with sweet red peppers, were starting to curl at the edges when they appeared and weren’t quite tender. They weren’t cooked four decades ago, but apparently they weren’t cooked four minutes ago, either. There were three, each topped with a twirl of bagel-shop-grade smoked salmon and just enough caviar to cover my thumbnail in a single layer. Only the summery creamed corn with flecks of red pepper spread out under the pancakes had any real flavor.

A restaurant that trips over its signature dishes is as hard to trust as a person who misspells his own name. (Good thing there are only four letters in Jams.) The chicken aside, I tended to have better luck when I treated the Jams name as a warning label and ordered things without it.

Wells likes the fregola sarda with mussels, the gnocchi with corn, the swordfish, and some of the desserts. Ultimately Pete gives the restaurant a zero-star "satisfactory" rating. Earlier this year, Eater critic Robert Sietsema gave the restaurant the same star count.

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