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'Playful' Cooking at Carmellini's Latest, Little Park Is a Hit With Steve Cuozzo.

The critic doles out two and a half stars.

Daniel Krieger

Steve Cuozzo pops into Andrew Carmellini's latest crowd-pleaser, Little Park, to see how Carms and crew do with seasonal new American. After eschewing the plea from servers to share plates, Cuozzo enjoys chef de cuisine Min Kong's cooking, which he describes as "more playful than usual":

Soul-satisfying on a bitter night, agnolotti-like ravioli are filled with kale and ricotta and served in butternut squash purée....Fire-roasted meat courses lit our fire. Dry-aged duck breast came with sausage "kebab" from the leg, in a crisp, caul-fat casing — the richest-tasting mammal matter I've had in ages.

Still, the restaurant falters at times. "Will we ever meet a fluke crudo that doesn't taste like every other?" ponders Cuozzo. Two and a half stars.

Little Park

85 W Broadway, New York, NY 10007 (212) 220-4110

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