Pete Wells savages Kappo Masa, Masa Takayama's pricey new restaurant in the Gagosian gallery, with a big, fat goose egg. He's outraged by the prices, and even more offended that they're attached to mediocre food:
Price of yellowtail collar left on the grill until it lost the silky, puddinglike richness that is the whole point of this cut: $28.
Price of noodles extruded from ground shrimp, a gluten-free invention of Mr. Takayama's, sloshing around in a greasy pond of way too much melted butter and not enough of the serrano chiles that may have given the dish a little spark: $24.
There are a few higher points among his meals there, but only enough to make the dishes seem "like very expensive lottery tickets." The restaurant gets zero stars, though Wells allows he might have given it one if the prices weren't so outrageous.