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Pete Wells Reviews Two Danny Meyer Restaurants, Plus Praise for Vic's and More

While Wells checks in on changes at North End Grill and Blue Smoke, other critics are impressed by Vic's and Le Fond.

Bess Adler

Ryan Sutton and Robert Sietsema will file their reviews later today, but in the meantime, here's a roundup of what the rest of the critics are talking about this week:

Pete Wells reviews not one but two Danny Meyer restaurants – North End Grill and Blue Smoke – both of which have recently gotten new chefs. On North End Grill: "Smoke and char bring a primeval thrill to a splayed-open, nearly rare squab...And the Berkshire pork, said to serve two but enough to subdue at least four, is a piece of meat for the ages; it could do for the pork chop what Peter Luger did for the porterhouse." Two stars for North End Grill, one for Blue Smoke. [NYT]

Tejal Rao is very pleased with Vic's, the Italian replacement for Five Points: "Satisfying, memorable vegetable dishes clutter the menu and even the cacio e pepe, a quiet construction of Italian pantry staples, manages to be big and loud and memorable – heavy on the everything, with the pasta unapologetically al dente, served hot enough to burn your mouth if you aren't careful." Two stars. [Bloomberg]

Zachary Feldman finds impressive French fare at new Greenpoint bistro Le Fond: "[Jake] Eberle turns out sumptuous foie gras terrine, rillettes made from rabbit and pork, and a bonkers cassoulet that calls for cannellini beans cooked in a broth fattened with gelatinous chicken feet. The ambitious legumes support three bulky diamonds of seared animal meat: pressed Rohan duck legs, Berkshire pork belly, and house-made pork sausage." [VV]

THE ELSEWHERE: Hannah Goldfield visits Beijing Pop Kabob, a tiny restaurant on the edge of Little Italy. Ligaya Mishan is charmed by West Indian seafood shack LoLo's. Gael Greene gets the VIP treatment at Bowery Meat Company.

THE BLOGS: Chris Stang loves Little Park, NY Journal has an overpriced, just ok meal at Duet Brasserie, Chekmark Eats becomes another fan of Marta, Restaurant Girl is pleasantly surprised by Semilla, The Food Doc has mixed reactions to the dishes at Cosme, Chopsticks + Marrow tries Chipotle's vegan sofritas (mostly for the free coupon), and NYC Foodie dines at Vic's.

Bowery Meat Company

9 East 1st Street, Manhattan, NY 10003 (212) 460-5255 Visit Website

Blue Smoke [closed]

116 East 27th Street, Manhattan, NY 10016 (212) 447-7733 Visit Website


31 Great Jones Street, Manhattan, NY 10012 (212) 253-5700 Visit Website

Le Fond

105 Norman Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11222 (718) 389-6859 Visit Website

North End Grill

104 North End Avenue, Manhattan, NY 10282 (646) 747-1600 Visit Website