Joshua David Stein is impressed with the vegetable-heavy tasting menu at Semilla: "Time and time again the chefs evoke all the Earth has to offer. A whey and parsley oil broth in a turnip and braised kale course, for instance, and tender discs of rutabaga and crisp shallot on a thin layer of lovage-dusted salt cod. The flavors are a direct experience of terroir – liberated, not mitigated, by technique." Five stars. [NYO]
Subbing in for Zachary Feldman, Scarlett Lindeman reviews Cosme for the Village Voice: "Lobster pibil ($25) has a sweet richness that could have been trampled over by chorizo and black bean but instead was complemented, swept along by the licorice flicker of puréed avocado leaf. Smoked mushroom barbacoa is decorated with green rounds punched out from raw hoja santa, adding a savor of eucalyptus and tarragon to the steam-roasted main ingredient." [VV]
Christina Izzo also reviews Cosme, and loves everything about it: "Olvera's single-corn tortillas pop up frequently, from a complimentary starter of crackly blue-corn tortillas with chile-kicked pumpkin-seed butter to dense, crispy tostadas ($17) dabbed with bone-marrow salsa and creamy tongues of uni." Five stars. [TONY]
Steve Cuozzo ranks 10 new pasta dishes around the city. One of his favorites is the sourdough cavatelli at Betony: "Shuman's tour de force should put an end to all the kale jokes – fermentation imparts leaves with a kimchee-like, pickly aspect. Toothsome cavatelli added to the pleasure. The dish varied from sweet to bitter to something of each, depending on where the fork struck." [NYP]
THE ELSEWHERE: Ligaya Mishan visits Plant Love House, a new Thai restaurant in Elmhurst. Shauna Lyon especially likes the clever appetizers at The Eddy, Gael Greene visits Trattoria Bianca, a new Italian spot near Penn Station.
THE BLOGS: Chris Stang deems Upland the best new restaurant of 2014, The Food Doc runs down the kaiseki meal at Shuko, Restaurant Girl pans Blenheim, Chekmark Eats loves the ramen at Chelsea Market's Mokbar, NY Journal finds a lot of promise at Tuome, NYC Foodie dines on bagels and blintzes at Baz.