Adam Platt Won Over by Luxe Ingredients and Skilled Hands at Omakase Counter Shuko

Lately Adam Platt has been occupying one of the 20 counter seats at Shuko, the newcomer from Neta alums Nick Kim and Jimmy Lau. Here, "no expense has been spared to track down the kind of trophy items that sushi snobs covet." Platt tries two types of uni, fried cod sperm, and "house-baked milk bread spread with Osetra."

In the wrong hands, this kind of material can tip easily into the realm of parody and pretension, but working both sides of their spacious new bar with tag-team efficiency, Kim and Lau produce one of the best new omakase experiences in town.

Platt gives two stars to the sushi-only omakase ($135), but recommends springing for the $175 non-sushi kaiseki menu, which helped the restaurant garner a total of four stars.