Pete Wells reviews David Pasternack's Barchetta this week and finds inconsistent cooking when it comes to the restaurant's fish dishes:
In 14 years as the chef at Esca, Mr. Pasternack has proved to be one of the city's most resourceful and skillful seafood cooks. It goes without saying that Barchetta...is a seafood restaurant. It is a very good one at times, but not at all times. There were encouraging nights, including the one that started with raw bluefish, when I was sure that Barchetta would become one of the first places I'd send people who really love the taste of fish. And there was one when it seemed mired among all the also-rans.Still, Wells is impressed with the thoughtfulness of the service, particularly when it comes to wine selection. "Barchetta could still turn out to be the seafood restaurant that downtown needs." One star.
· The Promise of Smoother Waters [NYT]
· All Coverage of Barchetta [~ENY~]
[Photo: Daniel Krieger]