clock menu more-arrow no yes mobile

Filed under:

Adam Platt Is Unimpressed By David Waltuck's 'Dated' Menu at Elan

New, 3 comments

Would the chef have been better off serving the dishes he fed his staff back at Chanterelle?

Daniel Krieger

The dated feeling and menu at élan, David Waltuck's first venture since Chanterelle, puzzles Adam Platt. He writes: "It's a mild surprise that Waltuck's eagerly awaited new Flatiron venture...doesn't feel slightly more, er, contemporary than it does." When it comes to the food:

This curiously flat tone extends to Waltuck's menu at élan, which begins in a promising way but loses a little of its creative steam as dinner progresses. The starters include...bowls of guacamole crowned, somewhat awkwardly, with pats of uni and fans of fried taro root, instead of corn chips....[and] the kind of round little foie gras "pops"... Of course, the time when foie gras lollipops (or fried taro-root chips or even uni, for that matter) elicited gasps of wonder in this jaded, comfort-addled town passed into the mists of history long ago.

The critic points out that, ironically, many of the dishes that Waltuck wrote about in his 2000 book Staff Meals — like chicken pot pie and buttermilk dipped fried chicken — are more in line with what "the city's eaters are clamoring for" these days. The verdict: One star.

Sign up for the newsletter Sign up for the Eater New York newsletter

The freshest news from the local food world