Steve Cuozzo Applauds the Return of Good Vietnamese Food at Midtown's Le Colonial

Reviewing Midtown stalwart Le Colonial, Steve Cuozzo decides that the 20-year-old French Vietnamese restaurant is back on its game, thanks to new chef Ron Hsu. "Greaseless, crispy pork-shrimp-and-crab rolls rivaled any downtown. Fleshy snapper arrived lightly perfumed by the banana leaf it was steamed in. Hot oil sharpened essences of fish and vegetables." Just skip the stuff that sounds like "Chinatown at its dullest," he says.

Le Colonial: 149 E 57th Street, Midtown