Ligaya Mishan Thinks Old Tbilisi's Georgian Cheesy Bread Will Bring You to Your Knees

Ligaya Mishan visits Manhattan's newest Georgian restaurant Old Tbilisi Garden, which charmed Robert Sietsema just a month ago. She writes: "If there is one Georgian dish that could bring Manhattan to its knees, it is adjaruli khachapuri, a thick flatbread with the ends tapered into blunt handles and the middle a caldron of near-volcanic cheese. A yolk slowly sets on top, like a giant gold pupil. Admire it, then beat the egg and cheese together and tear off bread to ladle it up." Old Tbilisi, 174 Bleecker Street, 212-470-6064.