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Ligaya Mishan finds a true taste of Ethiopia at Abyssinia in Harlem. Chef and owner Frehiwot Reta tops her legendary injera with mounds of traditional dishes, "But kitfo deserves the center spot: top round of beef chopped, ground and saturated with niter kibbeh (spiced clarified butter) and mitmita, a small firestorm of African bird's-eye chiles. It is typically served raw, but you may order it leb leb, seared just enough to seethe."
