Pete Wells reviews Carlos Suarez and Wade Moises' Provencal-inspired restaurant Claudette this week and finds a charming space, some "intelligent" salads including one of snap peas and radishes with an intriguing cumin dressing, and nods to North Africa. But, he notes: "Claudette's exploration of Provence can be undercut by its impulse to play it safe," as seen in a pieds paquets, sans pieds:
As a server with an oratorical flair put it, 'we absented the feet for cleanliness of flavor.' What we get instead are tripe-wrapped bundles of pork shoulder braised in white wine and tomatoes. Tender but polite, they are upstaged by the grilled bread…Still, he notes, "Most of the time...the kitchen does what it sets out to do, even if it seems to be holding back." He gives the restaurant one star.
· Inside a Souvenir From France [NYT]
· All Coverage of Claudette [~ENY~]