Pete Wells visits the Lower East Side's hottest noodle spot, Ivan Ramen this week. He is even more taken with some of the non-ramen dishes than with the noodles themselves:
[Ivan Orkin] makes a whacked-out vegetarian chili dog with fried tofu in place of the frank, a rich and intense stew of mushrooms and miso as the chili, and a squiggly line of American yellow mustard. (There's no substitute for yellow mustard.) Called a Tofu Coney Island, it's a joke that tastes great. That was true for the JFC, too: deep-fried chicken hearts and livers with a honey-mustard sauce that tasted similar enough to the traditional McNugget garnish to make me laugh, and different enough (sharper, stronger and enriched with ponzu) to make me want more.Wells loves the mazemans, but finds the soup ramens less consistent. After some grumbling about the egg surcharge, he gives the restaurant two stars.
· An American Ramen Master [NYT]
· All Coverage of Ivan Ramen [~ENY~]
[Photo: Bess Adler]