Despite an early misstep, and an austere dining room, Steve Cuozzo is impressed with David Waltuck's élan. He praises the former Chanterelle chef for his "accessible bistro menu," which displays "unforced, pitch-perfect Asian accents." He is particularly enthralled by the general Tso's sweetbreads and find that the chef "mischievously plays with expectations." He awards élan three out of four stars. [NYP]
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