Pete Wells reviews Bâtard, Drew Nieporent's replacement for Corton this week. He is very pleased with what Markus Glocker has to offer:
A fried zucchini flower, filled with bits of poached prawns and served with lightly candied lemon zest and whole pieces of poached lobster, was a full immersion in summer, a swim in a clear pond in the pines. A slab of octopus terrine, small circles of leg pressed together with smoky pastrami spices and dabbed with whole-grain mustard, evoked an entirely different terrain, nodding to the delicatessen, though the nuggets of braised ham hock, as rich and seductive as tuna belly, won't be found at Katz's.He also likes the lively crowd, and is just as enthralled by the chicken schnitzel as everyone else. Although "a few cards have yet to fall into place," he gives the restaurant three stars.
· Expressing Himself With Joy [NYT]
· All Coverage of Batard [~ENY~]
[Photo: Adam Lerner]