Pete Wells files a review of Patti Jackson's new Williamsburg restaurant, Delaware and Hudson this week, where the four-course prix fixe menu shows elements of Italian cuisine as well as Pennsylvania Dutch.
In June, sweet pea ravioli had delicate thin-skinned wrappers, perfectly formed little flying saucers in a butter sauce with slivers of Virginia ham. Her fresh spaghetti in a quick sauce of ripe tomatoes and basil dotted with milky ricotta got the dish, which often goes wrong, exactly right. Ms. Jackson's food doesn't have the buzz-cut professionalism of some restaurant food, which seems to have been produced by Adderall-chewing line cooks who practice their brunoise in front of a mirror while listening to 'Eye of the Tiger.' Her cooking has a more relaxed, informal air.Wells also loves the pretzel rolls and the crab cakes, and finds that the clunkers on the menu are outweighed by the hits. He give the restaurant a kind one star.
· A Recipe Book That Doesn't Stray Far [NYT]
· All Coverage of Delaware and Hudson [~ENY~]