Pete Wells Awards One Star to Delaware and Hudson

Pete Wells files a review of Patti Jackson's new Williamsburg restaurant, Delaware and Hudson this week, where the four-course prix fixe menu shows elements of Italian cuisine as well as Pennsylvania Dutch.

In June, sweet pea ravioli had delicate thin-skinned wrappers, perfectly formed little flying saucers in a butter sauce with slivers of Virginia ham. Her fresh spaghetti in a quick sauce of ripe tomatoes and basil dotted with milky ricotta got the dish, which often goes wrong, exactly right. Ms. Jackson's food doesn't have the buzz-cut professionalism of some restaurant food, which seems to have been produced by Adderall-chewing line cooks who practice their brunoise in front of a mirror while listening to 'Eye of the Tiger.' Her cooking has a more relaxed, informal air.

Wells also loves the pretzel rolls and the crab cakes, and finds that the clunkers on the menu are outweighed by the hits. He give the restaurant a kind one star.
· A Recipe Book That Doesn't Stray Far [NYT]
· All Coverage of Delaware and Hudson [~ENY~]

Delaware and Hudson

135 N 5th St, Brooklyn, New York 11211