Pete Wells leaves New York and heads to Las Vegas for his review this week. Alongside a roundup of some good, smaller restaurants off the strip, he files on Giada De Laurentiis's newly-opened, eponymous restaurant in the Cromwell. It's not pretty: "A medium-size twirl of flaccid bucatini in bland fresh tomato sauce ($24) made the case against the common view that simple food is the best. The margherita pizzette ($10)...might have come from the children's menu of any restaurant in America except an Italian one." [NYT]
Filed under:
