Yesterday Ryan Sutton reviewed The Breslin and Robert Sietsema deemed Bundu Khan the meatiest restaurant in New York. Pete Wells took a break from reviews to discuss the effects of Instagram on restaurants, but here's a roundup of the rest of the weeks big reviews:
Zachary Feldman finds interesting cocktails and excellent seafood dishes at The Eddy: "Silky oil-poached salmon yields to the gentlest pressure, flaking into pristine pink slabs to drag through grassy herb crème. Tinged with saffron, the plump fillet wears a crown of leafy greens, bolstered by lemony artichokes...Toothsome, seared cuttlefish ribbons texturally mimic planks of rendered pancetta, their mellow sweetness punched up with ajoblanco purée and celery-like lovage leaves. Firm-fleshed tilefish, the Eddy's sole seafood entrée, is moored by a brushstroke of squid-ink hollandaise and set over artichokes and beans in a saffron braise; it's a vivid, earthy plate." [VV]
Michael Kaminer reviews Spicy Lanka, a new Sri Lankan restaurant in Queens: "Chili-amped deviled fish ($10) climbs the Scoville scale with blood-red, sweet-sour sauce over crunchy vegetables and meaty tuna chunks. If our tongues weren't scorched, we would have licked the plates. Even when Spicy Lanka becomes Mellow Lanka, it scores. Chicken kothu ($8), a heaping mound of poultry, chopped roti, scrambled egg and stir-fried veggies, lulls with deep, subtle flavors and silky texture." Four stars. [NYDN]
[The Dutch by Krieger]
Steve Cuozzo ranks eight of the city's fanciest hotdogs, including ones from The Dutch, Recette, and DBGB. His favorite is the bacon-wrapped one at the Nomad Bar: "This is the town's new top dog. The moisture-rich beef anchors an armada of pleasures, from the rugged bacon to the piquant, pickled mustard seeds poking through the relish. All the flavors and textures bump and grind. Soybean oil-frying lends awesome mouth feel." He gives the dog four stars. [NYP]
[The Gander by Krieger]
THE BLOGS: Goodies First likes the Malaysian food at Pasar Malam, NY Journal finds the food at The Gander well-executed if conventional, the Food Doc lunches at Momofuku Ko, and Andrew Steinthal of The Infatuation gives Momofuku Noodle Bar an 8.6, and Yerba Buena an 8.2.
[Top photo: The Breslin by Krieger]