Steve Cuozzo nearly sends back his African pompano at Dave Pasternack's Barchetta. "[That fish] was strictly from hell — so undergrilled that I first mistook knife-resistant flesh for cartilage." Desserts like a modern take on sfogliatelle with fresh fruit by pastry chef Kate Goodyear seem to revive the meal somewhat. "If only the main menu was turned out with such care." [NYP]
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