Adam Platt files on Drew Nieporent's newest, Bâtard this week. He likes the "unpretentiousness" of the restaurant, compared to its predecessor Corton, and is mostly a fan of Markus Glocker's "classically sophisticated" menu:
"[T]here's...an elegant rabbit dish on the menu at this elegant restaurant (prepared in the "bouillabaisse" style with saffron ravioli and a garlicky rouille sauce), and a decent if slightly bloodless pre-carved strip loin, the best part of which is the dense little mound of braised beef cheeks on the side. The lamb rack for two is more successful (pay special attention to the fatty strips of lamb bacon), but the dish I can't stop talking about is the veal tenderloin "tramezzini," which the kitchen wraps in a golden crust with a scrim of Swiss chard, and garnishes with veal jus and chanterelles, like an exotic, savory form of French pastry."There are a few misses, but Platt finds the various prix fixe menus reasonably priced and is quite happy with the three course option. He gives Bâtard three out of five stars.
· Drew Nieporent's Bâtard Is Already Showing Quite Well [NY Mag/GS]
· All Coverage of Bâtard [~ENY~]
[Photo: Adam Lerner]