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Week in Reviews

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Post critic Steve Cuozzo is a big fan of chef Brandon Kida's food at Clement in the Peninsula Hotel: "Duck broth over pan-roasted black sea bass lent the fish unaccustomed depth without nullifying its flavor. White bean purée brought a magic touch to crackling-topped porcelet and octopus. Grits with a risotto-like texture sensuously partnered butter-poached Maine lobster." Three stars. [NYP]

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