Adam Platt reviews Tavern on the Green this week, and is not at all impressed with the revamp of the Central Park restaurant. Despite a less-gaudy dining room than the original, he finds the place to be just as much of a tourist trap, with food that falls short:
"My Tavern salad sounded quite grand on the printed page ('local greens with Nettle Meadow Kunik, La Quercia speck, roasted spring carrots, raw asparagus in a walnut-aged sherry vinaigrette'), but when it arrived at the table, it looked like something you'd be served at a third-rate country club. The wood-roasted Maine mussels didn't taste of wood or smoke at all and were dappled with the kind of vulcanized croutons one usually encounters in a high-school buffet line. The trio of ceviches (salmon, yellowfin, and scallops) tasted vaguely of cleaning chemicals, and the smoked- and cured-fish plate would have been better if the organic Irish smoked-salmon portion of the dish hadn't contained sand grit."Chicken is the safest bet, Platt says, but ultimately Katy Sparks' farm-to-table menu falls victim to the massive volumes that the kitchen has to serve. The critic gives the new Tavern zero stars.
· Tavern on the Green's Revival Falls Flat [NYM/GS]
· All Coverage of Tavern on the Green [~ENY~]