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In this week's Hungry City column, Ligaya Mishan reviews Houdini Kitchen Laboratory, a Ridgewood restaurant in "one of the coolest spaces in the city." For now it serves mostly pizzas, which "take the Neapolitan style as a starting point, but instead of being ultrathin with gooey centers, they have tooth, bending without flopping, staying chewy all the way to the knobby outer rim." [NYT]
