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Alan Richman gives three stars to Bobby Flay's Noho Mediterranean thunderdome, Gato: "The dish you must have and might tend to skip over is steamed halibut. Who orders that? The fish is nicely prepared but the couscous is the star of the plate, having absorbed a broth made with fish stock, fennel, tomato, saffron, fresh dill, and red chiles. The saffron wins the battles of the blushes, imparting an orange tint." [GQ]