Week in Reviews

Steve Cuozzo is a fan of French Louie, the new Cobble Hill restaurant from the Buttermilk Channel team: "Skate arrived moist after being dredged in cornmeal and rice flour. Crab and butter were folded into jasmine rice in a pool beneath the skate — a Southern "dirty rice" riff that tasted right at home with the ray. Flounder Grenobloise looked messy but tasted like a dream, its brown butter depth parried by restrained blood orange." Two stars. [NYP]