Mr. Fraser is known for his refined, thought-out vegetable tasting menus at Dovetail, on the Upper West Side. His vegetable plates at Narcissa are more unbuttoned and generous. They're complex, but in a relaxed way that fits this casual, many-things-to-many-people dining room, where tables of chef chasers sit next to narrow-waisted colts who look as if they get their nutrients from air kisses.Wells recommends the carrots Wellington, the rotisserie beets, the salads, and the desserts from pastry chef Deborah Racicot. Two stars. [NYT]
Voice critic Zachary Feldman is impressed by David Bouhadana's fish at Sushi Dojo in the East Village: "Muscular, firm kampachi sits next to jolting nubs of orange clam. Slabs of Spanish bluefin tuna lean on a patchwork of lightly pickled cucumbers. Then, a procession of sushi, served in traditional Edomae style, the sushi chefs seasoning each piece before handing it to you. That's how golden eye snapper gets a kiss of rock salt and lemon, and Tasmanian sea trout pulses with the spicy, sour smack of yuzukosho." [VV]
[Bar Bolonat by Krieger]
Adam Platt awards one star to both Bar Bolonat and The Gander. On the former: "I liked most of the things I tasted, although the modestly sized menu tends to work better in the loud room as a series of small-plate tastes (and drinks), instead of a full-bore sit-down dinner. Get the fried olives, the excellent "teardrop" kibbeh (with a pot of preserved-lemon sauce for dipping), and anything to do with vegetables, in particular the grilled baby artichokes (with pistachio yogurt) and the "Everyday Cauliflower," served with a peanut-flavored tahini." [GS]
[Tavern on the Green by Krieger]
Gael Greene files an early report on the revamped Tavern on the Green: "I've been here for dinner three times and so far, it's good enough. You might catch a glimpse of executive chef Katy Sparks behind glass, enforcing the drill. True, there's too much salt here and there. The bluefish terrine, a bit dry, a bit tame, is not exactly thrilling. Real toast would be better than crisps. The duck egg is nicely runny atop smoked ricotta with pitted, oil-cured olives and scallion on a clumsy crostata." [Insatiable]
[Russ & Daughters Cafe by Krieger]
Michael Kaminer gives three stars out of five to Russ & Daughters Cafe: "Though served with matzo, Russ & Daughters' chopped liver ($9) seems as goyish as it gets, more snooty paté than chunky chest-beater. The borscht ($8) isn't a rich beet soup here, but a puree that's more like Semitic baby food. Greasy latkes ($9) resemble traditional Jewish potato pancakes in name only. The pucks of shredded spuds fall apart before reaching your mouth." [NYDN]
[Margaux at the Marlton by Krieger]
THE ELSEWHERE: Amelia Lester is disappointed by many of the dishes at Marguax in Greenwich Village, Ligaya Mishan is pleasantly surprised by the $85 tasting menu at Box Kite, and Alan Richman lists his top 10 New York bagels.
[Ivan Ramen by Bess Adler]
THE BLOGS: Immaculate Infatuation's Andrew Steinthal gives an 8.8 rating to Momofuku Ssäm Bar, The Food Doc is wowed by many of the small plates at Ivan Ramen, Joe DiStefano rounds up his favorite offal dishes, NYC Foodie digs the bar bites at Azasu, and NY Journal describes the experience of dining at General Assembly during a DOH inspection.
· All Coverage of Reviews [~ENY~]