This week, Adam Platt reviews Jesse Schenker's The Gander in the Flatiron District, and Einat Admony's Bar Bolonat in the West Village. The critic does not like the vibe of the dining room at the former, and he finds that some of the quirkier dishes on the menu, like the Buffalo sweetbreads and brisket-stuffed tater tots, fall flat. Still, there are some winning dishes at The Gander:
The arctic char was my favorite seafood entrée (although it works best once you wipe the distracting mass of cocoa beans and chorizo from its top), and if you want something heavier, try the suckling pig, which is set in a glistening, slightly overrich muddle of Provençal-style artichokes mingled with salsa verdePlatt likes the burger and several of the dishes on the lunch menu, too.
Down in the West Village, Platt recommends ordering "anything to do with vegetables" at Bar Bolonat. He's also a fan of the minute steak, the beef cheek tagine, and the "hard-topped crème brûlée." The critic gives both restaurants one star each.
· Jesse Schenker's the Gander Treads Beyond Its Limits [GS]
· All Coverage of Reviews [~ENY~]