Narcissa Explains it All

Pete Wells gives two stars to Narcissa, the new East Village restaurant from Andre Balazs and John Fraser: "Beets are spit-roasted for hours until their outsides are charred like grilled steak and the insides have a focused, waterless intensity; then they're lightly crushed into deep-ruby hunks that drink up a horseradish crème fraîche. Plum-size sweet potatoes go on the rotisserie, too, getting a hot allspice-heavy jerk sauce completely right for their sugary flesh, which can taste flabby on its own." [NYT]