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Ligaya Mishan likes chef Haegeen Kim's riffs on Korean favorites at Dotory in Williamsburg: "Pa jun, a thick pancake of rice and tapioca flours, has the requisite crackly borders and a gold mesh on top, with green scallions and chives peeking through. Ask to add seafood, and little bombshells of sweet shrimp come embedded in its gooey insides. It is a dish to soothe a drunk." [NYT]