Pete Wells finds that after 17 years in business, Jean-Georges is still firing on all cylinders: "There's not much sleight-of-hand in Mr. Vongerichten's cooking. Nearly everything is visible, and the effects can still take you by surprise. Won tons stuffed with grilled foie gras are squirted, somewhat randomly, with a spiced red-wine reduction, but what makes the dish take off are the tart, crunchy passion-fruit seeds and the raw papaya chunks livened up with a dab of lime gel." Four stars. [NYT]
Steve Cuozzo thinks that the Gallaghers revamp is a success: "Nostalgia neanderthals, rejoice with me: Gallaghers is back, minus the apostrophe and an unspecified number of the celebrity/sports photos that defined the place for 87 years. Although hardly the best steakhouse in town, it's as stirring a resurrection of a classic beefery as Keith McNally's Minetta Tavern transformation in 2009." Cuozzo gives the restaurant two stars. [NYP]
For his final TONY review, Daniel S. Meyer gives four stars out of five to John Fraser's Narcissa: "It would be noteworthy if Fraser were simply a vegetable sorcerer, but he's also got a Midas touch with meat. Lamb two ways ($26) yields succulent rounds of loin rosy from edge to edge, and a crisp brick of belly drenched in musky fat. Charred rotisserie rib eye ($48) tastes so rich, you'd think the cow had been taking daily marrow supplements." [TONY]
[Narcissa by Daniel Krieger]
Adam Platt also files on Narcissa this week: "The tender, faintly gamy duck breast I ordered one evening was rosy pink inside and lacquered on its crunchy exterior with a scrim of honey speckled with cumin seeds. The lamb loin is handled with similarly expert care (with lamb belly on the side and a rubbing of mustard and herb-laced bread crumbs), and so is the truffled baby chicken, served atop an appetizing mash of apples, sautéed carrots, and frizzled nickels of pork and chicken sausage." Two stars. [NYM]
[The Cleveland by Krieger]
Alan Richman gives one star to The Cleveland, which has a new menu from Max Sussman. The takeaway: "Having said that the Cleveland belongs to the genre of casual New American, I think it's a little more fascinating and ambitious than that. Adding to its charms was a friendliness that made it feel somewhat like a taverna, even though no item on the menu was Greek. It should be taken for what it is, an odd place on an odd street with an odd menu, thankfully not ordinary at all." One star. [GQ]
[French Louie by Krieger]
Stan Sagner gives three stars out of five to French Louie in Carroll Gardens: "An understated salad of colorful roasted carrot ($11) brightened with rounds of blood orange and pistachio marmalade smells so fresh you can almost taste the terroir. One of the best dishes is the nuggets of nutty, roasted cauliflower ($7) tossed with heirloom grains and a habit-forming harissa-spiked yogurt. A bigger bowl of this side could placate even die-hard carnivores." [NYDN]
[Willow Road by Krieger]
THE ELSEWHERE: Gael Greene has a few great meals at Upper West Side newcomer Bustan, Ariel Levy of Tables for Two is underwhelmed by Willow Road, and Ligaya Mishan discovers some exciting Mexican/Chinese mash-ups at Lucky Luna in Greenpoint.
[Ristorante Morini by Daniel Krieger]
THE BLOGS: Max Falkowitz lists his favorite dishes at The Cleveland, Immaculate Infatuation's Chris Stang gives an 8.1 rating to Narcissa, Zachary Feldman is also wowed by John Fraser's new restaurant, Krista Garcia of Goodies First has a terrific meal at Estela, The Pink Pig samples some very good beef at Angus Club in Midtown, Joe DiStefano tries a few vegetarian dishes at Fu Run in Flushing, and NY Journal thinks that Michael White has another hit on his hands with Ristorante Morini.
[Top photo: Gallaghers by Krieger]
· All Coverage of Reviews [~ENY~]