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Adam Platt Gives Two Stars to John Fraser's Narcissa

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Adam Platt digs John Fraser's menu of "eclectic treats" at Narcissa in The Standard East Village hotel. He thinks that Fraser and and his crew are trying to "please all the city's jumbled culinary appetites" with this menu, and most of the time, they succeed:

Instead of the usual arborio rice, the risotto is made with barley, which the kitchen folds with fat clam bellies, leeks, and a touch of crème fraîche dissolved in clam broth. The goopy poached farm egg isn't much different from the thousands of other haute farm eggs being peddled at restaurants around town, but the grilled short-rib appetizer is worth the price of admission (it's crusted with pastrami spices and splashed with buttermilk), and so, it pains me to admit, is the carrots Wellington, which is tightly bound in a buttery pastry crust and drizzled with spoonfuls of lemony gremolata.
He prefers the dining room to the barroom, and Plattypants is not a fan of the popular carrot fries. But he likes most of the dishes on the menu and the overall quality of the cooking. In the end, Platt gives Narcissa two stars.
· Narcissa Brings High-Low Cuisine to the East Village [GS/NYM]
· All Coverage of Narcissa [~ENY~]
[Krieger]

Narcissa

21 Cooper Sq., New York, NY

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