Gato Madness

Joshua David Stein is the latest critic to file on Bobby Flay's Mediterranean pleasure factory: "Gato is very nice, consummately professional, quite unsurprising and very safe, which is also an apt description of Flay's cuisine. But before you or I dismiss it, to this not very flattering list of descriptors I'd also add frequently delicious. Though Mr. Flay is the master of playing it safe, he also shows flashes of the brilliance that brought him so much early fame." Two stars. [The Observer]