Pete Wells is not a big fan of the dining experience at Bill Telepan's new casual Tribeca restaurant, Telepan Local. Although he likes many of the dishes on the menu, the critic has issues with the portion sizes, and the tiny tables the small plates are served on:
A special of bay scallops with black-trumpet-mushroom purée was delicious, but there were six of them, and three of us. The price was $16. A $12 plate of eggs scrambled with smoked trout and fried bread worked out to about two forkfuls for each of us.He samples one of the best desserts of the year (coconut cake), and one of the worst (pear galette). But despite the duds, Wells decides to give the restaurant one star.
These dishes were all sensitively made from great ingredients, but they were all a bit well-mannered for this style of dining. The best small plates cause a clamor. Sharing them provokes tension: Who's getting the last bite?